Time warped
Thanks to our having come so far west the skies no longer have the same alignment to clocks as they do at home. Sunset last night was not until 6:20 pm and this morning although we started moving just before 7 am the sun did not rise until 7:16 am. The clouds from last night had gone and the morning sky was clear so we could see the sun rise over the eastern horizon as the moon hung low in the west.
None of that affected our routine but the impending crossing into Western Australia did. Majella abandoned our regular breakfast of muesli with yoghurt in favour of toast with cheese, avocado, and tomato since we could not take the latter two across the border.
By 8:15 am we were back on the highway with Majella driving. The highway crossed wide plains mostly covered in low grey green vegetation with occasional patches of taller shrubs and some variations in colour – brighter greens and dark red brown. The road ran straight and level most of the way with just an occasional low rise or gentle curve.
Around 9 am we reached the first lookout over the Bunda Cliffs. At that point the highway had come close to the coast and the parking area was just a hundred metres or so from the road with a hundred metre walk to the lookout. We had been warm in the van but there was a wind, though not as strong as yesterday, and it was cool outside. At the lookout we enjoyed spectacular views along the line of cliffs to the east.
Around 9:30 am we reached the second lookout. It was also close to the highway with a view along the cliffs to the west. As we continued west there were more lookouts where we paused for the view over cliffs and sandy stretches. At one we made coffee and ate tomato and lettuce sandwiches to further reduce our load of contraband before border quarantine. Time became confused as our devices caught just enough signal to adjust for the impending time zone change. At one point my phone and watch had set back 90 minutes for WA while my Fitbit was still on SA time.
When we reached Border Village first order of business was to dispose of remnants of our fruit, banana peel and tomato scraps from morning break. Then it was on to the golf course for Majella’s next hole, a short par 3. She teed off and I wondered if she was trying to emulate Jim’s famous Barnbougle hole in one when he got his ball caught in a generator that was on the course. Majella’s first shot landed in a bush. Her next shot disappeared over a hummock and we found it in another bush. A couple more strokes got her onto the green and into the hole.
Once golf was done we topped up with diesel. At $2.78/l it was the most expensive we have encountered to date. Before entering Western Australia we had to pass quarantine inspection. The inspector came aboard, looked in the refrigerator and cupboard above the sink, and pronounced us clear to go.
Majella drove the short distance to Eucla where we drove down the escarpment to visit the telegraph station ruins among the dunes near the beach. We did not walk all the way to the beach but drove back to Eyre lookout on the escarpment and paused for the view over the coastal plain.
Eucla golf course, Majella’s next challenge, was on the far side of the highway and down a 5 kilometre gravel road beside the rifle range. Majella teed off but then passed the club to me for a couple of strokes to save her sore arm. She putted out and we drove back into Eucla to get her card marked.
The Eucla cafe and motel looked swish and we thought about lunch but were still confused about time and how long ago we had eaten. We drove on toward Mundrabilla, descending to the coastal plain as we left Eucla. The countryside was much as it had been through the morning but now we were off the plateau we had been on behind the Bunda Cliffs.
The golf hole at Mundrabilla was easily found and for the first time the tee area had a small piece of plastic pipe on which Majella could place her ball. That enabled her to hit the ball without grounding her club so the ball was lofted a little and went further. Unfortunately she sliced a little and the ball lodged under a bush. That was not all bad since in fetching it she found another ball and soon after found an old wooden tee. She made a couple more shots to the green and putted out.
The roadhouse where Majella got her card marked seemed OK for lunch. We had coffees and shared a steak sandwich with a side of chips. The sandwich was tasty and the chips were hot and crispy on the outside. The young woman who served us had an accent, as have most of the staff in places we have visited the past few days. Majella asked and she told us she came from France, specifically Brittany where we spent 3 weeks in 2017. She did not know tiny Trébry where we stayed but we were able to name some places she knew.
After lunch Majella drove on toward Madura our target for today. By now we had left the treeless plains and were on the coastal plain with grasses, low shrubs, and scattered trees with occasional patches devoid of trees and others with thick mallee scrub. To the north we could see the low escarpment with more dense tree cover. By 2 pm WA time the van was reporting the outside was 24°C and what had been clear sky this morning had about 80% cloud cover with cumulus below a more scattered layer of cirrus.
Around 3 pm we reached Madura Pass, Majella’s next hole. She teed off well but landed in a bush and then another. Still she made the green in 4 (on a par 3) and putted out for another 2. She got her card stamped and I bought diesel.
I had penciled in Madura as our stopping point for tonight and Majella had heard good things about it from someone she spoke to on Kangaroo Island. Still it was early to stop, not yet 3:30 pm, so we decided to drive on to the next stop, Cocklebiddy Roadhouse, about 80 kilometres on.
Madura Pass gets its name because it’s there that the highway goes up the low escarpment and continues on the plateau. Now the countryside seemed well grassed with scattered scrub, low trees, and a sprinkling of low shrubs with yellow flowers.
A little after 4 pm we had arrived at Cocklebiddy Roadhouse, checked in, and setup the van for the night. Majella decided to leave golf until tomorrow morning in the hope that her sore right arm (too much golf already) might improve overnight. Instead she took advantage of the 2 x $2 coin 8 minute showers.
She returned from the shower in pyjamas, ready for bed whenever bedtime arrives. It seems we are still in a time warp. My iPhone and watch are showing 4:30 pm (Perth time) but my iPad has 5:15 pm (correct for neither Adelaide at 6 pm nor Perth). Apparently there is such a thing as Nullarbor time zones that sit somewhere between. Perhaps it’s best to stick with the sun.
Whatever the time (4:45 pm or 5:30 pm) I was short of my daily 10000 steps. I decided to reconnoitre the golf course. I found it beyond the motel which was beyond the roadhouse from where we were parked. It was a par 4 with the ladies tee 100 metres in from the start and 20 cm grass clumps all the way. That should be a challenge for Majella in the morning. On the way back to the van I picked up a can of beer at the bar.
Lunch had been filling and neither of us needed much dinner tonight. We had a packaged soup we bought in Port Augusta and that sufficed.
