On the north shore

This morning was always going to be a slower start because our first destination was just 15 minutes away and did not open until 9 am. Moreover, we had missed getting provisions at Drakes last night because it closed at 5 pm and we would need to be there when it opened at 9 am. After we woke at 7 am there was ample time to shower, eat breakfast, and attend to morning puzzles, email, and social media before preparing to leave.

Drakes was opening as we arrived and our business was quickly completed. Next stop was for fuel. The gauge was still showing more than half full but Majella thought we might go further than expected during the day so we topped up.

As we were driving out of town Majella spotted a sign advertising patisseries and a gathering crowd at Les Douceurs de Sooz. She parked by the roadside and we walked back 50 metres or so to what looked like a garage converted to commercial kitchen and small shop front. Sooz was doing a roaring trade with a keen local clientele. Majella bought a St Honoré for her and a snickers and salted caramel tart for me.

After that short delay we headed out of town under clear blue sky; no fog this morning. Our first planned stop for the day was at Emu Bay lavender farm. It was too soon after breakfast for coffees and we already had our morning treats ready for later but we browsed the store and bought some lavender and avocado massage oil. As we drove away we paused for a photo of the nearby old stone house.

Emu Bay was not exciting. After hesitating to park on the sandy space near the entry to the beach we walked across piles of dead sea grass to reach the water edge. Having seen enough of that we drove a little way to the pier and walked there before driving back through town and on toward our next destination, Stokes Bay.

The roads were well maintained gravel and ran through mostly grazing countryside with green grass and sheep. They were lined with mature trees and we saw only occasional signs of fire damage. An interesting feature of the landscape was the large number of grass trees by the roadside and planted in rows to mark boundaries. The country was hilly and, as we approached Stokes Bay we could see the ocean and land far off on the horizon. We surmised it must be the foot of Yorke Peninsula where we plan to be on Thursday.

Majella had read that Stokes Bay beach was voted best Australian beach in 2023 and could be reached only by a narrow track, almost a tunnel in places, through large rocks fallen from the cliff. We parked in front of a small rocky bay and followed the sign to the beach. The passage was very narrow in places and low enough to make us bend. The rock pool did look as though it would be enticing on a warm day but the rest of the beach seemed rocky under the water and the warning signs for severe rips did not add to its allure. We walked the length of the beach and back, pausing to photograph a couple of small birds at the water edge.

By then it was 11 am. On the way into the car park we had seen the Rock Pool Cafe so we walked the short distance to see if we could get coffee to have with our patisseries. It was closed. I walked down to try for a closer photo of some birds on the rocks while Majella went back to the car to prepare to leave.

Sadly there was nothing else for us in Stokes Bay. We drove through and out toward Parndana on sealed road. At the top of a hill we paused to consider our next destination. Majella had browsed the information book we got at the airport on Friday and was impressed by Dudley Wines near Penneshaw, about an hour away at the east end of the island.

A little way on we turned onto Bark Hut Road. That was well maintained gravel but most of the rest of the road to Dudley Wines was sealed. We reached there around 12:45 pm.

For lunch we shared a prawn and prosciutto pizza and a tasting paddle of five wines – sparkling rose, sparkling shiraz, sauvignon blanc, rose, and red blend. The pizza was excellent as were the wines.

From there we drove to Millie Mae’s Pantry in Penneshaw. Majella had found it in an online search for coffee. It was close enough to the foreshore that we parked, bought takeaway coffees, and walked to the park above the sea where we found two fixed ‘deck chairs’ where we sat to enjoy our coffees and treats from Sooz. They were worth the wait.

A sign we found indicated the location of a sculpture trail which we decided to walk. On my reading of the sign it was not far away so I opted to walk. Majella thought it far enough to drive. She stopped to offer me a ride but I declined and took longer than expected trying to photograph birds in a bush.

When I reached Majella she had discovered that the sculpture trail was on a hillside and extended 1.5 km with an unspecified number of steps. We set off up the hill, around the top, and back down. The trail included a few side loops and a suspension bridge across the ravine that ran up the middle. We met roads that abutted it at the top and going up and down. We did not see it all because there was really no way to walk all the trails without covering substantial parts more than once. It would be better to design such trails with an obvious route to follow and fewer alternatives.

On the drive back to Kingscote we visited an art gallery at Baudin Beach. The gallery displayed works by local artists in a variety of media and had a travelling exhibit, a video, from the national gallery. The woman looking after the gallery was keen to tell us that was the first such exhibit at the gallery.

At American River we watched pelicans perched on light poles and a seal playing in the water before reading a series of signs about their rebuilding of the schooner, Independence. Before leaving we drove around the bay to see the Mercure hotel that had been advertised on a sign in town.

Lunch and our treats were enough that we would not need a large dinner. Majella thought sharing a burger would suffice so we paused at Amanda’s Takeaway as we entered Kingscote and confirmed it would be open at dinner time. Then we filled up with fuel to save time in the morning and went back to our unit.

It was almost 5 pm. Majella relaxed after her day of driving but I went out for a walk along the foreshore. I managed some photos of birds and afternoon light before arriving back a little before 6 pm.

After yesterday’s fruitless search for a whiting burger, Majella was amused to discover that it was available at the takeaway around the corner from our accommodation. She ordered and paid online and I walked the short distance to fetch it. The burger satisfied Majella’s search and the Turkish bread bun was much better than typical hamburger buns.

Having completed Majella’s two day quest for whiting burger we were ready to rest and prepare for our return to the mainland tomorrow morning. The real adventure begins then.