Norseman

We woke, still in the time warp, some devices showing 6:50 am and others 7:35 am. It didn’t help that the sky was overcast this morning so there was no clue from the sun. Whatever the time, we slipped through our morning routine expecting that time would resolve itself when we got back to the real world further into Western Australia.

Things were no better in the van. The dashboard showed one time and the console with GPS another. Both were different from my devices. I drove off when we were ready.

Our first stop was no further than the other end of the roadhouse buildings. I had walked that golf hole last night so I knew where to stop and could direct Majella to the ladies tee. She managed a good first stroke and then fought her way through the rough fairway to the green and putted out.

Next stop was Caiguna, about 65 kilometres on. We were there just long enough for Majella to play that hole.

Just beyond Caiguna Roadhouse is a sign announcing the 90 mile straight (146.6 kilometres without a curve). We paused for a photo and then drove on about 5 kilometres to pause at the Caiguna Blowhole. Unlike blowholes we had seen previously it did not blow water but air. Dry caves do that as a result of the cave system below ’breathing’ as atmospheric pressure changes. We saw the hole, which is in a parking area adjacent to the highway, but it did not seem to be blowing.

The road ran straight as advertised but eventually threw a few curves before we reached Balladonia. By then we had reached areas with more trees though there were still occasional areas of low scrub. As we approached Balladonia we passed through areas that had been burned. There was regrowth but the fires had clearly been substantial.

When we reached Balladonia I filled up with diesel and Majella played the Balladonia hole. There were a couple of players ahead of her and they seemed more experienced golfers – at least they had more than one club. After dealing with golf we spent a few minutes in the museum attached to the roadhouse. It has a variety of artefacts of local significance and a piece of Skylab that fell nearby.

We had stopped to make coffee about an hour before reaching Balladonia so it was not yet time for lunch. Majella found mention of Newmans Rocks where camels had been observed drinking at a waterhole. About 40 minutes on we turned off onto Newmans Rocks Road and drove a kilometre or so on gravel road. We passed some campsites, some occupied, but saw neither waterhole nor camels. I drove on out to the highway but Majella was not well pleased. She had thought it a good place to stop for lunch. I stopped at a roadside parking place some distance on and we ate lunch of ham and cheese sandwiches with coffee.

When I planned our itinerary I had included Fraser Range as a likely campsite for tonight. Later I had heard that it might not be open and, when I checked on the web this morning, it was showing as temporarily closed. It was about an hour short of Norseman and we were already ahead of schedule so it was not problem. We did pause to look at the closed gates and then drove on to Norseman.

On the way into town around 3 pm I drove a little way up the scenic drive but we then decided we had best find a campsite. Gateway caravan park was on the way into town and had a powered site available so we booked in.

Majella thought it opportune to do some laundry. Once that was hung out to dry we drove out to find the golf course. Majella played the two holes with impressive scores and we drove back into town to find the visitor and have her card marked. Majella also asked the woman there for advice about what to see.

First was the bronze statue of Norseman the horse that started it all by scratching up a chunk of gold one night. I then drove up Beacon Hill to the lookout and we walked around the track below the summit that offered views in all directions. Close to town was mostly mining operations including an impressive hill of tailings but further away we could see Lake Cowan and the Fraser Ranges.

By the time we had finished the walk it was approaching sunset. It was still warm outside so I cooked our steaks (brought from Port Augusta) and onions on the outside gas cooker while Majella reheated the leftover fried rice. We enjoyed dinner with a glass of wine before settling to a relaxed evening. By that time all our devices had caught up and were showing Perth time.